We have the normal Stunfisk and the Galarian version!
Intermediate ⭐⭐
2 hours crocheting & assembly
0.25” H x 5” L x 4” W
0.5 cm x 13 cm x 10 cm
Normal Form:
Dark Brown
Light Brown
Yellow
Gray
GALARIAN FORM:
Black
Gray
Green
White
Red
ch = chain
FLO = Front loop only
hdc = half double crochet
2hdc = 2 hdc in the same stitch
inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
invdec = invisible decrease (FLO 2 sc together)
mr = magic ring
sc = single crochet
3sc = 3 sc in the same stitch
st = stitch
[ ] = worked in the same stitch
You can visit the Stitches page to review all the video tutorials for each stitch.
LOW sew
colour changes
needle felting
short rows
Check out all the testers work and follow them on Instagram!!
@vanessasintertwineddesigns
@mysweetcrochetcorner
@doodlesnloops
@meyshandcrafts
@beepocrochet
@barbarak1234
@doodlesnloops
@Plotting_2020
@barbarak1234
@toadallynotatoad
@ori.makes.things
If you would like to become a tester for an upcoming pattern test, check the Open Pattern Tests page to apply.
Being in Canada, these were the specific brands and colours I was able to find and use for my project:
NORMAL FORM:
Dark Brown = Loops & Threads, Impeccable, Chocolate Brown, 127.5g, 260m, Medium (4)
Light Brown = Loops & Threads, Impeccable, Baked Clay, 127.5g, 260m, Medium (4)
Yellow = Bernat, Premium, Yellow Balloon, 198g, 329m, Medium (4)
Gray = Lion Brand, Heartland, Grand Canyon, 142g, 230m, Medium (4)
GALARIAN FORM:
Black
Gray = Loops & Threads, Impeccable, True Grey, 127g, 260m, Medium (4)
Green
White
Red
Hook size: 3.50 mm or 3.75 mm
I used a 3.75 mm hook, but it’s always up to your own discretion. The best advice is to find the hook that is the closest in size to your yarn.
Pins
Scissors
Stitch markers
Darning needle
Needle felting tools
NOTE: If you would like to make a sturdy coaster, I recommend skipping the "Back Side" section. You can also make the full thing, but make sure you only use it as a coaster for large sturdy mugs.
The entire pattern is worked in continuous rounds.
Using yellow then dark brown yarn and 3.75mm hook.
sl on hook, ch x10, turn, work into 2nd st from hook, and work all the way around the chains.
R1: (sc x8, 3sc) x2 [22]
R2: (sc x9, 3sc, sc) x2 [26]
R3: (sc x9, inc x3, sc) x2 [32]
R4: (sc x9, (inc, sc) x3, sc) x2 [38]
Switch to dark brown.
R5: sc x5, hdc x4, (2hdc, hdc x2) x3, hdc x5, sc x5, (inc, sc x2) x3, sc [44]
R6: sc x4, hdc x5, (hdc x3, 2hdc) x3, hdc x6, sc x4, (sc x3, inc) x3, sc [50]
R7: sc x3, hdc x6, (hdc x4, 2hdc) x3, hdc x7, sc x3, (sc x4, inc) x3, sc [56]
Finish off.
We are essentially doing the same stitches as the back side so we end up with the same shape, there are just more colour changes for this side.
Using light brown then yellow then dark brown yarn and 3.75mm hook.
With the colour changes in the chains, it's really easy to add or miss stitches, count each colour carefully!
sl on hook, ch x5, ch x5, turn, then starting in R1, work into 2nd st from hook.
R1: sc x4, sc x4, 3sc, sc x4, sc x4, 3sc [22]
R2: sc x4, sc x5, 3sc, sc x10, 3sc, sc [26]
Finish off yellow.
R3: (sc x9, inc x3, sc) x2 [32]
R4: (sc x9, (inc, sc) x3, sc) x2 [38]
R5: sc x5, hdc x4, (2hdc, hdc x2) x3, hdc x5, sc x5, (inc, sc x2) x3, sc [44]
R6: sc x4, hdc x5, (hdc x3, 2hdc) x3, hdc x6, sc x4, (sc x3, inc) x3, sc [50]
R7: sc x3, hdc x6, (hdc x4, 2hdc) x3, hdc x6, sc x4, (sc x4, inc) x3, sc [56]
Do not cut dark brown yarn. We will finish all the details for each side before crocheting both sides together.
Using gray yarn and 3.75 mm hook.
R1: sc x3 in mr, ch, turn [3]
R2: inc x3 [6]
Leave a long tail for sewing
Hold the front side of the body so that the wider end is at the bottom. Sew the bottom mouth piece between R4 and R5 in the center. Then sew the other mouth piece above.
One side of the mouth
Sewing the bottom mouth
Sewing the top mouth
On each side of the mouth, pin a circle (diameter=1.4cm) smaller than the size of the mouth.
Using white wool, needle felt the circle for the eyes, then add a small black dot near the top of the eye for the pupil.
Optional: Use yellow to fix the yellow patch so it looks more like an oval shape. You can also just use the yarn to go over the edges.
Add a yellow circle at the bottom end where the 2 colours change (see picture). It is about the same size as the eyes.
I made a short video here explaining how to start this section for the Galarian version, sorry it is hard to see the black yarn. I might make an alternative video for the regular form eventually.
We will now be be connecting the back side with the front side. Place the 2 wrong sides facing each other (the sides with all the ends).
On the Back side, you can count 3 st to the left of the light brown st, that's where the first st of R8 will go into.
Make sure you work through all 4 loops in R8 (both loops of each Side).
If you are making the sturdier coaster, just ignore the note above.
Using the dark brown and light brown yarn and 3.75mm hook.
Continuing from the front side where we left off after R7.
R8: sc x2, hdc x7, (2hdc, hdc x5) x3, hdc x7, sc x3, (inc, sc x5) x3, sc [64]
In the next round, we will be making the fins and the tail using short rows. To make it easier to read, I will use the small r's to indicate rows when necessary. Each row will start or end with a sc on the body depending on the direction.
R9: sl x5,
[Fins 1]
r1: sc (on body), ch x7, turn (work down ch in 2nd st from hook)
r2: hdc x3, sc x2, sl, sc (on body)
r3: sc (on body), turn, sc x7 (on ch, last st will be in the loop at the tip), ch, turn (work down ch in 2nd st from hook)
r4: hdc x3, sc x4, sc (on body)
Make sure you pass the light brown yarn under the stitches on the body until you use the light brown yarn again in r7.
r5: sc (on body), ch x3, turn (work down ch in 2nd st from hook)
r6: hdc x2, sc (on body)
r7: sc (on body), sc x3 (on ch, last st will be in the loop at the tip), ch, turn (work down ch in 2nd st from hook)
r8: hdc x2, sc, sc (on body)
on body: sl x16,
[Fins 2]
r1: sc (on body), ch x3, turn (work down ch in 2nd st from hook)
r2: 2hdc, sc, sc (on body)
Make sure you pass the light brown yarn under the stitches on the body until you use the light brown yarn again in r5.
r3: sc (on body), turn, hdc x2 (on ch), ch, turn,
r4: sk, sc, sc (on body)
r5: sc (on body), ch x8, turn (work down ch in 2nd st from hook)
r6: hdc x3, sc x4, sc (on body)
r7: sc (on body), turn, sc x6 (on ch), ch, turn (work down ch in 2nd st from hook)
r8: sk, hdc x3, sc x2, sc (on body)
on body: sl x9,
[Tail]
r1: sc x13, ch, turn
r2: hdc x13, ch, turn
r3: sk, sc x11, sl
Skip the rest of the stitches on the body. Finish off any loose tails, cut them a little shorter and hide them inside the body. We are done!!
NOTE: If you would like to make a sturdy coaster, I recommend skipping the "Back Side" section. You can also make the full thing, but make sure you only use it as a coaster for large sturdy mugs.
The entire pattern is worked in continuous rounds.
Using green then black, (and a little white) yarn and 3.75mm hook.
sl on hook, ch x10, turn, work into 2nd st from hook, and work all the way around the chains.
R1: (sc x8, 3sc) x2 [22]
R2: (sc x9, 3sc, sc) x2 [26]
R3: (sc x9, inc x3, sc) x2 [32]
R4: (sc x9, (inc, sc) x3, sc) x2 [38]
Switch to black.
R5: sc x5, hdc x4, (2hdc, hdc x2) x3, hdc x5, sc x5, (inc, sc x2) x3, sc [44]
R6: sc x4, hdc x5, (hdc x3, 2hdc) x3, hdc x6, sc x4, (sc x3, inc) x3, sc [50]
There are some stitches in white in the next round.
R7: sc x3, hdc x6, (hdc x4, 2hdc) x3, hdc x7, sc x3, inc, sc x4, inc, sc x4, inc, sc x4, sc [56]
Finish off.
Tester tip! Steam block this piece now if you want it to lay perfectly flat at the end.
We are essentially doing the same stitches as the back side so we end up with the same shape, there are just more colour changes for this side.
Using gray and green yarn and 3.75mm hook.
With gray yarn, sl on hook, ch x10, turn, work into 2nd st from hook, and work all the way around the chains.
R1: sc x7, sc, 3sc, sc x8, [sc, sc, sc] [22]
R2: sc x7, sc x2, 3sc, sc x2, sc x2, sc x6, 3sc, sc [26]
R3: sc x8, sc, [sc, sc], inc x2, sc x2, sc x2, sc x6, sc, inc x3 [32]
R4: sc x9, inc, sc x2, inc x2, sc x3, sc x2, sc x5, inc, sc, (inc, sc) x2, sc x2 [38]
R5: sc x5, hdc x4, 2hdc, hdc, hdc, 2hdc, hdc x2, 2hdc, hdc x4, hdc x3, sc x2, sc x4, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x2, inc, sc x2 [44]
R6: sc x4, hdc, hdc x8, (2hdc, hdc x3) x2, 2hdc, hdc, hdc x5, sc x5, inc, sc x2, inc, sc, sc x2, sc, inc, sc x2 [50]
R7: sc x3, hdc x6, hdc x3, (2hdc, hdc x4) x3, hdc x2, hdc, (sc x4, inc) x3, sc x5 [56]
It is easier to not cut the gray yarn until we switch to black in the last assembly section. We will finish all the details for each side before crocheting both sides together.
Tester tip! Steam block this piece now if you want it to lay perfectly flat at the end.
Make 1 in white yarn and 1 in red yarn.
Using 3.75 mm hook.
R1: sc x3 in mr, ch, turn [3]
R2: inc x3 [6]
Leave a long tail for sewing
Hold the front side of the body so that the wider end is at the bottom. Sew the white mouth piece between R4 and R5 in the center , this will be the bottom of the mouth. Then sew the red piece above.
On each side of the mouth, pin a circle (diameter=1.4cm) smaller than the mouth.
Using white wool, needle felt the circle for the eyes, then add a small black dot near the top of the eye for the pupil.
Optional: Use green to fix the green patches so it looks more like a bird footprint shape. You can also just use the yarn to go over the edges.
I made a short video here explaining how to start this section and finish R8.
We will now be be connecting the back side with the front side. Place the 2 wrong sides facing each other (the sides with all the ends).
On the Back side, you can count 3 st to the left of the white st, that's where the first st of R8 will go into.
Make sure you work through all 4 loops in R8 (both loops of each Side).
Using the black yarn and 3.75mm hook.
Continuing from the front side where we left off after R7. You will work into the 3rd stitch to the left of the white stitch on the Back side.
R8: sc x2, hdc x7, (2hdc, hdc x5) x3, hdc x7, sc x3, (inc, sc x5) x3, sc [62]
In the next round, we will be making the fins and the tail using short rows. To make it easier to read, I will use the small r's to indicate rows when necessary. The sc (on the body) are in separate stitches, we never work in the same st on the body.
R9: sl x6,
[Fin 1]
r1: sc (on body), ch x8, turn
r2: (work in 2nd st from hook in ch's): sc x7, sc x2 (on body), turn,
r3: sc x7, ch, turn
r4: sk, sc x6, sl (on body)
continue on body: sl x8
[Front Spikes]
(ch x4, on ch's: sk, sc, hdc, dc, on body: sk x2, sl) x3
continue on body: sl x6
[Fin 2]
r1: ch x8, turn
r2: sk, sc x7, sc x2 (on body), turn
r3: sc x7, ch, turn
r4: sk, sc x6, sl (on body)
continue on body: sl x6
[Back Spikes]
FLO: sc x20, turn
(sl, ch x4, on ch's: sk, sc, hdc, dc, on body: sk x2, sl) x5
Skip the rest of the stitches on the body. Finish off and hide tail. Straighten out the fins and spikes!
Please tag me on instagram @knottyRox so I can see your beautiful creations ❤️
If you would like me to feature your creations on this page, please email me your picture and social media information so I can credit you properly!