Chimecho is going to be a fun one to make including lots of different crafting techniques!
Intermediate ⭐⭐
2-7 hours crocheting
3-8 hours embroidery / cross stitch
13” H x 3” L x 3” W
32 cm x 7 cm x 7 cm
Yellow
Red
White
ch = chain
FLO = Front loop only
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
invdec = invisible decrease (FLO 2 sc together)
mr = magic ring
sc = single crochet
sk = skip a stitch
sl = slip stitch
[ ] = total stitches at the end of this row or round
You can visit the Stitches page to review all the video tutorials for each stitch.
sewing
colour change
embroidering/cross stitching
I have listed the variations my testers have chosen to do, the possibilities are endless!
@doodlesnloops
chenille yarn
shiny colours
needlefelted eyes
@crochet_this_that
yellow safety eyes
@plotting_2020
no plastic canvas and hdc instead
@barbarak1234
crocheted eyes
Being in Canada, these were the specific brands and colours I was able to find and use for my project:
Yellow = Craft Smart Value, Ginger, 198g, 324m, 100% acrylic, Medium weight (4)
Red = Loops & Threads, Impeccable, Cherry, Medium (4)
White = Loops & Threads, Impeccable, White, Medium (4)
Hook size: 3.50 mm or 3.75 mm, 2.50 mm
I used a 3.75 mm hook, but it’s always up to your own discretion. The best advice is to find the hook that is the closest in size to your yarn.
Pins
Scissors
Stitch markers
Darning needle
Plastic canvas (size 7-count)
Metal fasteners for eyes (see image below) or paint safety eyes
Using yellow yarn and 3.75mm hook.
Leave 6-12 inches of yarn before starting magic ring.
R1: mr 6 [6]
Before pulling the ring tight, fold the end of the tail in half. Leave 1-2 inches for the loop, then tie a dead knot. Feed the hanging loop through the magic ring, pull ring closed. The dead knot should be "inside".
R2: inc x6 [12]
R3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]
R4-5: sc x18 [18]
R6: (invdec, sc) x6 [12]
Stuff or place bell inside.
R7: invdec x6 [6]
R8-9: sc x6 [6]
Do not finish off, we will continue here in the next section.
Continuing from the Bell section but switch to white yarn.
R10: sc x6 [6]
R11: inc x6 [12]
R12: (inc, sc) x6 [18]
R13: (inc, sc x2) x6 [24]
R14: (inc, sc x3) x6 [30]
R15: (inc, sc x4) x6 [36]
There will be colour changes with red yarn.
For a slightly cleaner colour change, if the stitch you are working into is a different colour, work the stitch in the BLO. I also change colours on the pull through of the last stitch.
R16: inc, sc x3, sc x2, (inc, sc x5) x4, inc, sc x3, sc x2 [42]
R17: inc, sc x4, sc x2, inc, sc x6, (inc, sc x6) x3, inc, sc x2, sc x4 [48]
R18: sc x7, sc, sc x3, sc x4, sc x5, sc x15, sc x5, sc x3, sc x3, sc x2 [48]
R19: sc x7, sc x2, sc x3, sc x2, sc x7, sc x13, sc x7, sc x2, sc x3, sc x2 [48]
R20: sc x10, sc x3, sc, sc x10, sc x8, sc x14, sc x2 [48]
R21: sc x11, sc x7, sc x4, sc x3, sc x7, sc x3, sc x4, sc x7, sc x2 [48]
Place eyes between R18-19 about 7 st apart on the side where there's no red. Cut the red yarn.
R22: (invdec, sc x6) x6 [42]
R23: (invdec, sc x5) x6 [36]
R24: (invdec, sc x4) x6 [30]
R25: (invdec, sc x3) x6 [24]
Optional embroidery but highly recommended: using vertical stitches, go over the red sections so the colour and texture looks smoother.
Stuff.
R26: (invdec, sc x2) x6 [18]
R27: (invdec, sc) x6 [12]
Use a piece of scrap black yarn to embroider the mouth 1 round below the eyes.
R28: invdec x6 [6]
ch 5, leave a long tail, finish off.
Tip!
The colour changes are just to create a rough outline that we will embroider on top of after.
However, if you wish to skip the embroidery part, you may want to achieve a cleaner colour change by:
For a slightly cleaner colour change, if the stitch you are working into is a different colour, work the stitch in the BLO. I also change colours on the pull through of the last stitch.
Using white yarn and 3.75mm hook.
R1: mr 4 [4]
R2: (inc, sc) x2 [6]
R3: (inc, sc) x3 [9]
Pin one arm under each red bulge in the front.
Pin the last arm in the back, in the middle, under the red bar.
Sew in place when you are happy with the positioning.
For a stiffer tail, we will be embroidering/cross-stitching on a plastic canvas.
Trim the mesh so you have 10 x 51 squares.
There are 2 versions and different charts for each depending on the method you use.
I personally prefer version 1 because it looks better on both sides or my cross stitching just sucks and the back side is messy.
You may also opt for any other methods to fill in the grid!
I did alternating diagonal lines for every 5 rows (except the first set uses 6 rows). For each new set, remember to start in the same last row so there are no empty gaps.
I added a cross stitch option since it is pretty popular these days and some people may want to include another craft they enjoy.
Scroll down to the one you prefer!
--> Use white yarn
--> Use red yarn
Cut a reasonable amount of yarn you are comfortable working with (~1m)
Start with the dotted line going into the top-left hole. Pull the yarn all the way through so the length of the yarn tail is similar to the dotted line. Make sure you cover the yarn end as you continue.
The tail (--) of the arrow indicates the hole to thread your needle from the last arrow from back to front of the plastic mesh
Follow the numbered arrow to it's head (>), then thread through that hole from front to back.
Hopefully the pattern becomes clearer after you have done a few rounds.
Once you reach arrow 15, make sure you are working from back to front of the SAME whole as arrow 13.
NOTE: The last line of the chart on the left is the SAME as the first row of the chart on the right. (Arrow 68 is repeated in the chart.
When you run out of yarn, thread the remaining yarn under a few existing lines you've embroidered (on the back side). Cut the excess yarn.
Cut a new piece and repeat what you've done with the dotted line to secure the tail.
W Use white yarn
R Use red yarn
The details and skills of cross stitch can be found online, I am including some guidelines to help you get started
Cut a reasonable amount of yarn you are comfortable working with (~1m)
Each cell represents 1 X made, so with 10 holes across, you will be making 9 Xs
Make sure you are consistent and always do one direction \\\ first then the other /// on top for each X
Thread the yarn from back to front in the top-left corner. Pull the yarn all the way through leaving a short tail.
Work the yarn to the immediate hole diagonally to the bottom-right.
Work the yarn to the hole directly above
Repeat #2-3 until you reach the end of the row
Now work back over these stitches going from the top-right hole to the bottom-left hole
I have some additional tips on how to get started in this video.
Please let me know if there are other things I should include if I record a new one short tutorial.
Using the white yarn, start at one end of the white section then make your way around to the other end. On the corners, go through the hole twice. You will need about twice the length of yarn.
For the red section, repeat the same procedure as white but when you reach the bottom of the mesh, place a toothpick in between so the loops are bigger.
Hold the piece with the Right Side facing you, with the toothpick on top. Remove the toothpick one stitch at a time as you work into the loop.
Using a 2.5mm hook, sl on hook, then work from the rightmost loop:
R1: sc x10, ch x2, turn [10]
R2: dc x3, hdc, sc, sl, sc, dc, hdc, sc [10]
Finish off and hide tail. Feel free to go over any other plastic that may still be poking out.
Using the tail from the head/body, sew through the top 4 middle holes of the canvas until tight, then hide tail.
Please tag me on instagram @ThatMakerRox so I can see your beautiful creations ❤️
If you would like me to feature your creations on this page, please email me your picture and social media information so I can credit you properly!