I am sooo happy with how Sandygast turned out. I have seen other crocheted versions but none of them actually had a hole for its mouth so I decided to make my own version.

This pattern is also the first time I hosted a pattern test, it was a really great experience and I will definitely be running more pattern tests in the future before posting my free patterns.

Pattern Testers

I made a quick little post on reddit to see if I could get any testers, and to my surprise, there was a lot more interest than I expected! I wanted 3-5 people just to get a few different perspectives but even 1 week later after posting, there are still people commenting wanting to test.

I sincerely appreciate every single feedback I got because some of them even help with my formatting for all the patterns moving forward.

Check out my testers’ beautiful work!

Hook size: 3.5 mm or 3.75mm or 4.0 mm

I used a 4.0mm hook, but some testers told me they would have preferred a 3.5mm hook for the next time. When I made my shiny Sandygast based on all the feedback and revisions, I used a 3.75mm hook. The stitches were tighter and neater and obviously, Sandygast came out a little smaller. The best advice is to find the hook that is the closest in size to your yarn.

Yarn: Acrylic Medium weight (4) in beige, white, and red

Being in Canada, these were the specific brands and colours I was able to find and use for my project:

Beige = Craft Smart Value, Taupe, Medium (4)

White = Loops & Threads, Impeccable, White, Medium (4)

Red = Patons Canadiana Yarn, Lava, Medium (4)

Felting tools and wool in black and light grey

Typical additional notions will include: pins, scissors, stitch markers, needle

Stitch Abbreviations

I will be using the US terminology with these specific abbreviations

BLO = back loop only

ch = chain

dc = double crochet

2dc = increase with dc (2 dc in same stitch)

dec = decrease (2 sc together)

FLO = Front loop only

hdc = half double crochet

2hdc = increase with hdc (2 hdc in same stitch)

inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)

invdec = invisible decrease (FLO 2 sc together)

mr = magic ring

sc = single crochet

sk = skip a stitch

sl = slip stitch

[ ] = total stitches at the end of this row or round 

As a preface, I labeled this pattern as an intermediate pattern since you need to flip and turn the piece quite a few times which can be a bit confusing if you haven’t crocheted too many amigurumi before, however, you can always challenge yourself and give it a go!

Next, I will have the entire pattern available here if you would like some extra details and tips. Otherwise, I have a condensed 1-pager PDF file that you can download for free, just scroll to the bottom of this post to find it. Print it out and get a binder ready to collect future Pokemon patterns!

If you do ever crochet your own Sandygast I would love to see your version, please tag me on instagram @knottyrox so I can see it!!

Let’s get into it.

Body

The body is built from the top down, where R1-10 are done in continuous rounds. R11 moves the starting stitch over for R12-21 to be done in rows back and forth which builds up the sides of the body. R22 will resume in continuous rounds.

I like to mark the stitch as I am completing my first stitch of each round.

Using beige yarn and 4.00mm hook.

R1: mr6 [6]
R2: inc x6 [12]
R3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]
R4: (inc, sc x2) x6 [24]
R5: (sc x3, inc) x6 [30]
R6: (inc, sc x9) x3 [33]
R7: (inc, sc x10) x3 [36]
R8: (inc, sc x11) x3 [39]
R9: (sc x12, inc) x3 [42]
R10: (sc x13, inc) x3 [45]
R11: sc x5, ch, turn [5]
R12: sk, sc x4, (inc, sc x14) x2, inc, sc x5, ch, turn [43]
R13: sk, sc x4, (inc, sc x15) x2, inc, sc x5, ch, turn [45]
R14: sk, sc x5, (inc, sc x15) x2, inc, sc x6, ch, turn [47]

For each of the next rows, it is extra important to place a marker at the beginning of each row until you reach it again.

R15: sk, sc x4, inc, sc x16, ch, turn [22]
R16: sk, sc x15, inc, sc x5, ch, turn [22]
R17: sk, sc x5, inc, sc x15, ch, turn [22]
R18: sk, sc x16, inc, sc x4 [22]

Place marker in the loop so it doesn’t come loose when you come back to it. Do not cut. With a new strand of yarn, sl on hook, then repeat R15-R18 at the other end of R14 where you placed a marker. Remember to skip the first stitch in R15!!!

Once you are done both sides of R18, return to the marker on R18 and continue on with R19 to finish the body.

R19: ch, turn, sk, sc x4, inc, sc x16, ch x5, sc x16, inc, sc x4 [49]
R20: ch, turn, sk, sc x4, inc, sc x16, sc x7 over ch space, sc x16, inc, sc x5 [52]
R21: ch, turn, sk, sc x4, (inc, sc x20) x2, inc, sc x4, ch x8 [62]
R22: (sc x4, inc, sc x17) x2, sc x4, inc, sc x5, sc x10 over ch space [67]
R23: (inc, sc x21) x3, sc [70]

Leave a marker on the first backloop stitch, we will return here for the Bottom Closing section.

R24: FLO: sc x70 [70]
R25: (sc, 2hdc, 2dc x2, 2hdc, sc x3) x3, (sc x3, hdc x2, dc, 2dc x2, dc, hdc x2, sc x3), (sc, 2hdc, 2dc x2, 2hdc, sc x3) x3, (sl, sc, hdc, dc x2, hdc, sc, sl) [96]
R26: (sc x4, 2hdc, 2dc x2, 2hdc, sc x4) x3, (sc x4, hdc x3, 2dc x2, hdc x3, sc x4), (sc x4, 2hdc, 2dc x2, 2hdc, sc x4) x3, (sc x2, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc x2, sl) [123]

Finish off and weave in tail.

At this point, your Sandygast should look something like this.

Inside Tunnel

Flip the body inside out, look for the smaller hole. Place a sl on your hook, then begin at the bottom right corner of this hole. The first round is done by stitching all around the perimeter in a clockwise direction.

Using beige yarn and 4.00mm hook.

R1-2: sc x24 [24]
R3: (inc, sc x4) x4, sc x4 [28]
R4: dc x12, sc x16 [28]
R5: (inc, sc x5) x4, sc x4 [32]
R6: dc x14, sc x18 [32]
R7: (inc, sc x6) x4, sc x4 [36]
R8: dc x16, sc x20 [36]
R9: (inc, sc x7) x4, sc x4 [40]
R10-11: dc x20, sc x20 [40]
Repeat R11 as needed for tunnel to reach other end of body.

Flip the body back over the tunnel. Line up the end of the tunnel with the big open hole, pin in place. sc through both layers all around to close it. Stuff.

Bottom Closing

Place a sl on hook then continue at the marker on the back loops of R24.

Using beige yarn and 4.00mm hook.

R1: BLO: (dec, sc x8) x7 [63]
R2: (invdec, sc x7) x7 [56]
R3: (invdec, sc x5) x8 [48]
R4: (invdec, sc x4) x8 [40]
R5: (invdec, sc x3) x8 [32]
R6: (invdec, sc x2) x8 [24]
R7: (invdec, sc) x8 [16]
R8: invdec x8 [8]

If the hole is still too big, sc all around until it is small enough to finish off, hide tail.

Extra Lumps (make 2)

Using beige yarn and 4.00mm hook.

R1: mr6 [6]
R2: (inc, sc) x3 [9]
R3: (inc, sc x2) x3 [12]
R4: (inc, sc x3) x3 [15]
R5-6: sc x15 [15]

Stuff and sew one on each side.

Shovel

Using white then red yarn and 4.00mm hook.

R1: mr5 [5]
R2-6: sc x5 [5]

Switch to red yarn

R7: FLO: sc x5 [5]
R8: BLO: sc x5 [5]
R9-10: sc x5 [5]

Finish off and leave a long tail.

Using red yarn and 4.00mm hook.
Ch x8, turn, continue on 2nd loop from hook.

R1-2: sc x7, ch, turn [7]
R3: dec, sc x5, ch, turn [6]
R4: sc x6, ch, turn [6]
R5: sc x4, dec, ch, turn [5]
R6: sc x5, ch, turn [5]
R7: sc, sl x3, sc [5]

Finish off and leave a long tail. Use the tail of the handle to sew the handle and base together, then sew the shovel to the top of the body.

Eyes

Pin a peanut shape for the outline of the eyes, needle felt in black.

Use light grey to make 2 ovals for the eyes.

Okay I completely goofed up adding the pattern to Ravelry (sorry I am new to it), aka, I cannot upload the PDF to the page listing for purchase anymore. I guess this online version will be the only one available for Sandygast until I find a solution. Thanks for your patience! Email me if you have a crazy sob story and absolutely need the PDF version.

If you would like to add the Ravelry listing to your project/library/favourites, here it is.

Please tag me on instagram @knottyRox so I can see your beautiful creations ❤️